I. INTRODUCTION:

The economic globalization has an impact both on developed and developing countries. For developed and some of developing countries, globalization provides new opportunities for expansion and growth through increased international marketing possibilities. For the majority of developing countries, however, globalization brings risks due to the fact that they are unlikely to survive in their present form without improving quality management practices (Daniel Kitaw and Fasika Bete, 2003).

To become efficient and competitive in today‘s challenging global business environment, many countries and companies across the world have started to realize the benefits of quality management. According to A. Mitra, quality management, enhance the competitive position of the company in the long run, with a concomitant improvement in profits (Amitava Mitra, 2016). Quality management benefits the organization because it represents the productive and profitable use of the organization‘s resources (John E.Bauer, Grace L. Duffy and Russell T.Westcott, 2006). Thereby, processes that generate high-quality products and services result in lower costs from repair, rework, and warranty actions. High quality can lead to repeat orders from current customers, and it often enables an organization to win an enhanced reputation and additional orders in the market. Quality management is considered essential for an organizations success, as well as for its relationships and partnerships with its customers and suppliers. Birhanu and Daniel explained that, through analysis of the Ethiopian Quality Award self-assessment report evaluation, generally, quality management practice in Ethiopia was found to be low in all tenets including leadership, resource management, process management, and customer satisfaction. And they mention also that, the service industries quality management practice is weaker than that of the manufacturing industries as measured by all the quality parameters. (Birhanu Beshan and Daniel Kitaw, 2014).

They suggests for any additional research in the field of quality management in Ethiopia to increase effectiveness and efficiency of the industries and make them more competitive in international market. Even though most researchers have suggested that, quality management helps to improve performance and productivity in all manufacturing and service industries and showed their statistical evidence to back up such claims, no research have been done regarding the relationship between export performance and quality management in particular to textile and garment manufacturing industry. Many authors also emphasised and studies the organizational stress effects. Organizational stressors affect large number of employees. Organizational climate is a prime example. Even with the presence of difficulties, Kaur and Saddy (2013) states that an improved industrial climate contributed to a better recovery position. A high pressure environment that places chronic work demands on employees fuels the stress response (Radha, 2011).But the aim of this study is much more than that and aims to investigate the relationship between quality management practices and export performance of garment and textile exporters of Ethiopia specifically, by examining the statistical estimate on how each of quality management variables influences the export performance of the companies in global garment and textile market, to fill the gap. Further, the research also attempt to find out any empirical evidences regarding the relationship. The Ethiopian government has been working to realize a developed and prosperous Ethiopia through its Agricultural Development Led Industrialization Economic policy. Apart from formulating the policy, the Government has also designed various strategies meant to implement the policy. One of the strategies which come at fore front is the Industrial Development Strategy which gives much attention to the textile industry among others. The fact that the sector is capital saving and labor intensive would contribute a lot towards reducing unemployment by creating job opportunities for a number of citizens which in turn boost up the economy of the country. Since 2010, the Ethiopian government has put effort to improve, support and expand the textile industry, both in serving the domestic market but mainly with the aim to export and be competitive at the global market. Data from central statistics agency of Ethiopia has revealed, the export share of textile and garment from GDP, all industry and all manufacturing sector reached 1.41%, 16.43% and 53.36% respectively in the year 2013/14 with a CAGR of 2.55.

II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE:

Quality control emphasizes testing of products to uncover defects and reporting to management who make the decision to allow or deny product release, whereas quality assurance attempts to improve and stabilize production to avoid, or at least minimize, issues which led to the defects in the first place. Total quality control", also called total quality management, is an approach that extends beyond ordinary statistical quality control techniques and quality improvement methods. (Sayankar, 2013). Management science, system approach, contingency approach and dynamic engagement were the most important management theories by the end of the 20th centuries. Quality Management is considered as one of the dynamic dimensions of management, since quality is always a moving target. . According to Kevin Dooley, Thomas Khun‘s theory proposed three periods within the revolution of quality management pre-industrial paradigm of quality assurance, an industrial paradigm of quality control, and a post-industrial paradigm of total quality management. This model suggests that each paradigm was the result of the discipline's adaptation to environmental contingencies (Dooley Kevin, 2000). In the 1950s Quality Assurance was gaining ground in Europe. It was a well-developed discipline, practiced by many companies in a variety of formats. However, it was believed that an actual European focus on Total Quality Management (TQM), in which the best ideas from around the world could be brought together, was missing (Naidu, 2013). Early management theory consisted of numerous attempts at getting to know industrial life before the nineteenth century. Among others, the contributions of Adam Smith (1723—1790) on division of labor, Robert Owen (1771—1858) on working conditions, and Max Weber (1864—1920) on bureaucracy are the milestones of industrial management in the early period industrial development. The beginning of the 20^th century witnessed the developed classical management theories. Major contributors were Frederick W. Taylor (1856—1915) on scientific management, Henry L. Gantt (1861— 1919) on the incentive system, Henri Fayol, (1841-1925) on modern management, and Mary Parker Follett (1868—1933) on group work.

In the period between 1930 and 1960, behavioral management theory was dominant. Outstanding contributors were Elton Mayo (1880—1949) on the Hawthorne Experiments, Abraham Maslow (1908—1970) on needs hierarchy, and Fredrick Herzberg on motivating and hygiene factors.

Feigenbaum describe quality as ―the total composite product and service characteristics of marketing, engineering, manufacture and maintenance through which the product in use will meet the expectations of the customer‖ (Feigenbaum,A.V, 1961). This definition is imperative because it brings into consideration departments other than manufacturing which contribute to the quality of product and service provided by the company to meet the expectation of the customer. According to W. E. Deming, quality is all about reducing variation-precision and accuracy of production. He identified that there are natural and assignable variations. The former are unavoidable variation and the latter one is avoidable variation (Edward Deming W., 1982). Philip. B. Crosby believes that quality is ―Conformance to requirements or specification and reliability as a test of quality‖ (Crosby P.B., 1984). According to this definition, once a specification is established, quality can be said to be a matter of ensuring conformance to specification. It sets a level which is considered to be ‗good enough and it results in an emphasis on inspection. All the work goes into ensuring that nothing goes out of the specification. Taguchi also define quality as the loss a product causes to society after being shipped (Taguchi, G., 1986). Recent study by Florian P and Roland Jochem, on quality shows the definition of quality exceeds the conformance of specific requirements. Reliability and perceived quality are becoming increasingly important (F. Pasch and R. Jochem , 2016). M. J. Juran defines quality as ―fitness for use‖ a utility value concept, which varies from one customer to another. His concept reflects meeting customer‘s needs and is based on the following five quality characteristics: technological, psychological, and time-oriented. There are also related aspects of quality like the quality of work life. Quality of work life in realtion to textile manufacturing is also a point of focus for many authors. It can be defined as the environment at the work place provided to the people on the job. QWL programs is the another dimension in which employers has the responsibility to provide congenial environment i.e. excellent working conditions where people can perform excellent work also their health as well as economic health of the organization is also met. (Murali and Abirami 2017).

Side by side with quality concerns it is also crucial not to forget the motivation of the workers because motivated employees are needed in our rapidly changing workplaces. Motivated employees help organizations survive. Motivated employees are more productive. To be effective, managers need to understand what motivates employees within the context of the roles they perform (Bharathi, 2017). There is a strong underlying suggestion in the quality management literature that quality is the best and, in many instances, only dimension through which competitive advantage can be achieved. Any ISO 9001certified organization is supposed to have an effective Quality System and achieve maximum customer satisfaction, profit, employee motivation, improvements and minimum rejections, reworks, customer complaints and problems.

Figure 1. Garvin Quality Management Process: (adapted from Garvin)

An increased emphasis on building quality into the product and service puts greater emphasis on quality management. Ruth E. Glock and Grace I. Kunz explain the significance of quality management in fashion manufacturing as more effective application of quality management system is essential to meet quality standards and reduce turnaround time (Ruth E. Grock and Grace I. Kunz, 2005). Bester field, explain effective quality management in terms of cost cutting for better global market competition and he called this matrix as quality paradox. Bester F. also recommends that, the value of quality management might be determined by using a series of quality cost index (Besterfield, D.H., 2000). The other concept they discussed is talent management because of its ability to help organizations more effectively acquire, align, develop, engage, and retain their high performing and potential talent. While challenges and barriers exist within many organizations, they are not undefeatable. Organising properly for success, approaching talent sourcing in new and innovative ways, game planning (asking the right questions), and deploying a single, complete enterprise software platform to enable mobility are all efforts that can be readily tackled by innovative HR leaders. The other covered area in production is a working capital of Firms. Having an optimal level of working capital that maximizes the value of a manufacturing company. Large inventory and a generous trade credit policy may lead to high sales. Larger inventory reduces the risk of a stock-out. (Desmukh and Panigrahi, 2012)

ISO 9000 Principles of Quality Management:

The standard is made up of five main clauses and 23 sub-clauses, each of which contains requirements that should be fully implemented to gain the potential benefits from the adoption of the system. In developing and maintaining ISO 9001, the collective experience and knowledge of international experts has been used for the development of the eight major quality management principles embedded in the ISO 9001 standard, that can be used by management as a basis for improving an organization's performance (Tricker, R., 2001). Even if ISO is widely accepted in the quality management world, it is prone to critics. A common criticism of ISO 9000 and 9001 is the amount of money, time, and paperwork required for registration. According to Barnes, "Opponents claim that it is only for documentation, Proponents believe that if a company has documented its quality systems, then most of the paperwork has already been completed" (Barnes, Frank, 2000). Wade argues that ISO 9000 is effective as a guideline, but that promoting it as a standard "helps to mislead companies into thinking that certification means better quality." In short, Wade argues that reliance on the specifications of ISO 9001 does not guarantee a successful quality system (Wade, Jim, 2002). The standard is seen as especially prone to failure when a company is interested in certification before quality. Certifications are in fact often based on customer contractual requirements rather than a desire to actually improve quality (Henricks, Mark, 2001).

III. MATERIALS AND METHODS:

The research techniques and the reason for selecting the technique are discussed in detail. It fundamentally focused on the research design, population and sampling, data source and collection method, procedure of data collection and lastly the methods of data analysis. Considering the purpose of the research and the nature of the phenomenon, explanatory research method was applied. The purpose for choosing explanatory method reliant on the fact that, the study is intended to examine the relationship between quality management practice and export performance as an independent and dependent variable respectively. The variables under study are expected to have positive or negative relationship or may not have relationship at all. The study was used quantitative research methods, and for this purpose, questionnaires was prearranged and used. According to the Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute 2015/16 annual report the total number of medium and large scale textile and garment manufacturing exporters in the country is 40. Out of which integrated manufacturers accounts 3(7%), garment manufacturers accounts 28(71%), semi-integrated accounts 5(12%) and traditional close manufacturers accounts 4(10%). Thereby, the total population for this study was defined as the management members of these factories, who have a direct engagement with the research issue. The above classification helps the student researcher as a stratification factor for sampling purpose. The sampling technique selected here was two stage sampling technique; the primary sampling technique applied was Proportionated stratified sampling, this is due to the fact that a population from which the sample is to be drawn constitute a heterogeneous groups, so that this sampling technique is more efficient to obtain a representative sample by separating the population elements in to non-overlapping groups.

Proportionated sampling refers to the selection from each sampling unit of a sample that is proportionate to the size of the unit. Advantages of this procedure include representativeness with respect to variables used as the basis of classifying categories and increased chances of being able to make comparisons between strata. Due to geographical disparity of the factories, and the limited time and related costs to collect data from all factories, proportionated stratified sampling technique applied to select samples from each stratum and additionally it helps to make comparisons between strata (Yogesh Kumar Singh, 2006). Based on this, half the elements from each stratum were randomly selected. The second step that was implemented is judgmental sampling, that is, from management member of the selected factories the study used only those management members who best meet the purpose of the study and this comprises the general manager, the production manager and the marketing manager. Therefore, a total of sixty respondents were chosen for this study.

IV. RESULT AND DISCUSSION:

In order to conduct this study a total of 60 questionnaires were distributed for management member of factories, among these questionnaires all the 60 were collected. The response rate of all the questionnaires stood at 100%. Therefore, the analysis is done on the 100% of response rate which is considering satisfactory to conduct the study. The result can be seen as follows.

Table 1. Respondents Demographic Profile Summary. Source

Respondents profile		Freq.	Per.
	Male	45	75.0
Gender	female	15	25.0
	Total	60	100.0
	Under 25	0	0.0
	25-34	47	78.3
Age	35-44	13	21.7
	Above 45	0	0.0
	Total	60	100.0
	0-4	38	63.3
	5-9	22	36.7
Previous experience	10-19	0	0.0
	20-30	0	0.0
	Above 30	0	0.0
	Total	60	100.0
	College Diploma	6	10.0
Educational status	BA/BSC	48	80.0
	MA/MSC	6	10.0
	Total	60	100.0
	Textile Engineer	47	78.3
Educational	Industrial Engineer	5	8.3
Background	Marketing Management	5	8.3
	others	3	5.0
	Total	60	100.0
	Garment manufacturers	42	70.0
Respondents by	Semi-integrated accounts	6	10.0
Factory specialization	Traditional cloth	6	10.0
	manufacturers accounts
	Fully integrated	6	10.0
	Total	60	100.0

Source (Survey Result)

As shown in table 6, 75% of the respondents are male and 25% were female. This tells the majority managers are males. With respect to the age of the respondent, about 78.3% of the respondents lay under the age between 25-34 years and next to that, the age group categorized under 35-44 years accounts 21.7% of the respondent. This evidently designates that the workforce composition of the respondents of the industry are young and middle age group.

Figure 2: Factory’s category by Product

Levels of Implementation of Quality Management:

The following descriptive statistical analysis shows the conceptual framework taken from this research. Mean for individual question and over all mean for each eight dimensions were calculated to analyze the implementation levels of quality management practices. For easer interpretation of the scores mean value is summarized as follows.

Leadership:

Table 2: leadership Assessment

Mean range	category

1:00-1:80	Worse
1:80-2:60	low
2:60-3:40	Enough
3:40-4:20	High
4:20-5:00	Very High

As a one instrument of leadership, respondents were asked whether they are using organizational mission, vision, strategy to meet export performance. Only 60% were agreed and strongly agreed on developing and using organizational vision, mission and strategy. Conversely, 30% of the respondents were neutral and 10% were disagreeing to the question. The mean value is 3.77, which is high according to the scale given above, and standard deviation remains 0.963 that might be due to the diversified perception of the respondents. Secondly, the respondents were asked whether they strive to create and sustain shared values, fairness and ethical models for behaviour at all levels of the firm. Only 48.3% of the respondents were demonstrate their positive agreement in creating and sustaining, shared values, fairness and ethical models in their organization as a leadership principle. 51.7% were neutral and disagree in using of these models and the mean value is 3.33 which possibly put under ―enough ―category. The next question presented to respondents was whether they established a culture of trust and integrity, to eliminate fear in their organization. Accordingly, 48.3% were agreed that they established culture of trust and integrity to eliminate fear. However, 26.7% of the respondents disagree and they belief that creating a culture of fear helps the organization to persuasively implement jobs by the employees.

The remaining 30% is neutral to the question. The mean value is 3.32 slightly higher than the median and the standard deviation is 1.033 which indicates the values are spread above and below the mean due to perception differences. The respondents were asked about whether they provide peoples with the required resource, training and authority to act accountably. 55% of the respondents said they agree to offer employees with all the required resource, training and authority that make the employee accountable. While 30% was of the view that they cannot express their opinions. The research further show that 15% of the managers said they were not provide resources and authorities to the employee to act accountability. The mean value is 3.4, based on the above classification, it is moderately high, and the standard deviation is 0.942. Customer focus dimension of quality management which was including three enquiries brought to the respondents. The first enquiry was whether the respondents underline and align the needs of customer‘s current and future needs in the organizations plan. 76.7% were responding that they emphasize and make parallel plan with customers current and future need, whereas, 16.7% were disagree and neutral to this question with the mean value and standard deviation of 3.9 and 0.796 respectively. The second question was whether they aimed at exceeding customer expectation. 58.3% of respondents agree in that their intention is to exceed customer expectations. 33.3% of the managers were not defining their view towards the meeting of customer expectations. 8.3% were disagreed to the enquiry. The mean value and standard deviation is 3.58 and 0.766 respectively.

Table 3. Respondents Perception Summary on Customer Focus: (Source: Survey Result)

Questions	Scale	Freq.	Per.	Cum. Per.	mean	Sta. dev.
Underline and align the needs of customers current and future needs	Disagree	4	6.7	6.7
	Neutral	10	16.7	23.3
	Agree	34	56.7	80
	Strongly Agree	12	20	100
	Total	60	100		3.9	0.796
	Disagree	5	8.3	8.3
Our aim is to exceeded customers‘ expectations customers are satisfied with the relationship we have	Neutral	20	33.3	41.7
	Agree	30	50	91.7
	Strongly Agree	5	8.3	100
	Total	60	100		3.58	0.766
	Strongly Disagree	3	5	5
	Neutral	35	58.3	63.3
	Agree	22	36.7	100
	Total	60	100		3.27	0.710
*Customer focus*					*3.58*	*0.571*

All the independent variables included in this model except, exceeding customer expectation were statistically significant that they determine export performance positively. Underlining and aligning the needs of customer‘s current and future needs, satisfaction of customers with the relationship they have increased by one step in the level of importance export performance increased by 41.2 % and 58.4% respectively. According to respondents perception aiming to exceed customers‘expectations doesn‘t have any contribution to export growth. Respondents believed creating satisfaction to customers in terms of relationship is more importantly affect the export performance growth than aligning the current and future needs of customer.

Figure 3: Graph indicate the export intensity of the industry

V. CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATION:

CONCLUSION:

The top management‘s culture in developing vision, mission and strategy of the firm to meet export performance is limited. In addition, interconnecting the strategy to employees, and developing a common shared value and purpose is not a customary rehearsal. Most firms wrongly perceived that shared values, fairness, and ethical models are less important factors, and they consider also continuously inspiring, encouraging and recognizing employee role doesn‘t have any influence to export growth. Besides, building a cloud of trust and integrity is neglected. Hence, it absolutely determines the productivity of employees depressingly. A lower degree of practice is also seen in allocating resources and providing training to employees. In general, the result confirms, even though, its relevance is understood by the firms, leadership practice as a quality management maneuver is not comprehensively pragmatic. This implies that Ethiopian textile and garment export business still have a long way to go in the journey of quality management. The study revealed a strong indication by most respondents that, aligning the needs of customer‘s current and future need with organizational objective is critical factor in export business. But, managers were not attempted to establish their strategy to excel at and exceed the customer‘s expectation. And the existing relationships they have with their customers, is not satisfactory even for themselves. In general this demonstrates that Ethiopian garment and textile companies lack to give more attention for customer‘s need hence, customer focus strategies were not revised continuously. It can be concluded that firms still needs to struggle to implement customer focused programs to improve their performance.

The verdicts of the study designates that the practice of engagement of peoples in the firms has been left behind in facilitating open discussions and sharing of knowledge. Learning and improvement, has been customary to some extent by the managers but, they have still a reservation on sanctioning employees to take action without any restraint. Recognizing and acknowledging employees for contributions is moderately accepted. Most firms were not conduct continuous assessment to evaluate their employee‘s satisfaction and to take remedial dealings that helps them to make the operational environment more encouraging and promissory for workers. It is apparently known that, to create a successful organization, there has to be an ongoing focus on improvement. In this study it is noticed that improvement in terms developing a new process and product is moderately seen as important factor by the firms. And integrating these improvements in a planned and comprehensive way is not in hand. Most export firms confirm that they have no room for recognition and acknowledging innovation. Factories training programs mostly were casual and focused on primary dressing skills. The total ability of the firms to accommodate the dynamic forces of global fashion demand is problematic. Therefore, it can be concluded that Ethiopian textile and garment export business is still have a long way to go in the journey toward continuous improvement.

VI. RECOMMENDATION:

To Business Firms Leadership is a way of enhancement, which coordinates the capabilities of the business organization. Therefore, either firms should give a superior consideration to business leadership skills, while recruit managerial positions or, short term trainings has to be consolidate in order to fill those skill gaps encountered.

Developing strategy which encompasses vision and mission, and communicating the strategy across the firm, develops a consistency of purpose in the organization. Therefore, firms should follow scientific procedures to formulate its strategy and to realize it towards the improvement of export performance.

Firms should develop active merchandizing, product forecasting and designing team that regularly scan the global fashion market trends and respond accordingly.

Firms should formulate partnership strategy based on short and long term outcomes. The strategy should at least define; the priority levels of partners, the possible upcoming problems if relationship failed and the way to reverse the problem, the means and interval of communication.

To the Government

The government should give a special prominence to assist leadership and international marketing capacity building programs that would support internal growth of the factories in terms of management efficiency. Several studies have discussed the role of international networks in firms’ internationalization process. International network plays an important role in enhancing knowledge creation in business relationships. (Udani and Chelliah, 2016)

Benchmarking programs in quality management should have to consolidate to capture and scale up experiences skilfully.

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Received on 25.08.2021 Modified on 18.10.2021

Res. J. Humanities and Social Sciences. 2022;13(1):29-37.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5828.2022.00006

Model Summary
Model	R	R Square	Adjusted R Square	Std. Error of the Estimate
1	0.401^a	0.361	0.327	0.66593

Coefficients
Model 1	Unstandardized Coefficients		Standardized Coefficients	t	Sig.
	B	Std. Error	Beta
(Constant)	-0.015	0.562		-0.026	0.979
Underline and align the needs of customers current and future needs	0.412	0.114	0.404	3.606	0.001
Our aim align the needs of customers current and future needs	-0.174	0.154	-0.164	-1.132	0.262
Customers are satisfied with the relationship we have	0.584	0.16	0.511	3.649	0.001